For ICF basement only: Do you install a sill plate to just cover the concrete portion of the basement wall, or do you install one wide enough to cover the inside top of the ICF form also?  And if concrete only, does that top 2" to 3" piece of ICF have to be fireproofed when drywalling the vertical surface (assuming you are not drywalling bottom of joists yet)?

Depending on your exterior finish, the sill can sit inside or outside. If a brick exterior is added you'll have to finish with a tappered top panel on both sides to accomodate both plate and brick. In the case of lap siding , again depending on what the exterior finish will comprise of(asenite, foam board, etc.) it could sit directly on top of concrete. Figuring total exterior finish will basically determine your plate placement. Not sure about the fireproofing but I would think not. You'll have to check with your local code on that one.
Cheers!

I mean the inside face of the wall, which has to be fireproofed (drywalled) to get a C.O.

I generally prefer the sill plate to cover the entire wall. The type of sill will depend on the total thickness of the wall. Our typical basement wall is made 6" blocks for a total thickness of 11 3/4". Here, I use PT 2x12 sill plate. At 11 1/4", it leaves about 1/4" uncovered on each side. This is acceptable in most cases. Remember that in addition to attaching drywall on the interior side, the sill must extend far enough to the exterior so that the bandboard of your floor joist system sits frimly on it.

Maybe a better question is do you use the outside face of the concrete, or the outside face of the form, when dimensioning the foundation? Should the upper floors sheathing line up with the concrete, or the form?

Normally you'd use the outer face of the form for your foundation dimensions. If you stack the floor joists on top of the foundation the sheeting will finish @ end of joists and if you hang the floor inside your sheeting will stop @the inner form.
Maybe if you would explain what your trying to achieve or what problem your trying to resolve someone here can put you on the right track! The exterior finish does play a role in this question.

I have no problem yet, just trying to gather information. For a regular poured basement, the outside face of the first floor and the face of basement concrete would line up (close enough). Adding insulation to the outside foundation would not impact where you put your sill plate or face of wall above. that is my confusion with ICF, does the outside of the form line up with the face of wall (non ICF wall) above? or does the outside of the concrete line up with the wall? Or doesn't it matter? Shouldn't all the weight be on the concrete, and none on the form? Wouldnt the outside of the form be equivalent to insulation added to the outside of a regular non-ICF basement, which would not have a sill plate or walls directly above it, would it?

Excellent picture, thanks. That's TF walls, correct?

It could affect it. If you were planning to add say 2" of foam board all the way up the poured basement wall and to the frame wall above then the framed wall would line up with the exterior poured basement. But if you were only adding the 2" foam board on the poured wall but not the framed wall above then you would extend the framed wall 2" past the face of the poured concrete wall so the end result is flush from ground to soffit.

Similarly, with ICF basement with framed wall above you should put the face of the framed wall flush with the exterior of the ICF foam face unless you are going to also put foam board on the framed wall. Then you need to hold the framing back so that after the foam board is applied to the framing the faces will match.

Baldwin, I must say, that's one of the best, no that is THE best, detail drawings that I've ever seen. It obviously works with virtually any ICF system, TF or block. It would be "prettier" with an ICF wall detail as the above grade wall, or, next best, a SIP wall (since this IS the "ICF Forum").

NFC

I would normally hold the sill plate back from the edge to allow room to insulate the outside of the rim joists with foam. There is no other easy way to insulate that strip.  If the wall sheathing is not also covered with a layer of foam, that means the walls will be cantilevered by the thickness of the foam I use. With 2 x 6 framing, even 2" of cantilever isn't a problem.

rgb

Great picture, Baldwin
Do you know how was that created? It looks like Chief Architect. Anyway, a few comments- rebar every horizontal course may be overkill, and we are bringing gravel up to top of the footing and subslab foam over top of footing inside to butt the wall foam, creating a thermal break there. Especially good when radiant heat in the slab. Some compensation needed for floor height.

http://www.quadlock.com/images/engineering/ICF_Basement_Detail.png

That is a great drawing. It looks like it might have been created in SketchUp and then rendered in another software. As far as the OP is concerned, if I was to use quadlock product, I would hold the sill/floor framing in line with the concrete wall and then extend quadlock's 'retrofit' eps on up the stud wall for an R22 to R32 wall......

yeah your right... its for ilustration purposes anyway... horizontal rebar should really be ever 36" o.c.
but i know theres some kind of a limitation that calls for max spacing as well... something like 3 times the wall width... so it should be 24" o.c.

Hi there, new to the site, what software did you use to create the image you have posted, it clearly shows  what you are trying to achieve. Am considering doing a self build and would find something like this really useful in laying out plans of what i am doing.

i think they used paint

Posted By Baldwin2012 on 24 Feb 2010 12:55 PM
i think they used paint

Ha ha.
 
It was plain AutoCad 2008. Using 2 lights to give you the Global Lighting and Final Gather effect. Otherwise it's 12 hours of rendering time.